Best MTB Pedals Tested and Ranked

MTB Pedals: What I Have Learned After Breaking Too Many

I have destroyed more mountain bike pedals than I care to admit. Crashed them into rocks, ripped cleats out during emergency dismounts, bent spindles on failed gap jumps. It has been a journey.

But hey, now I actually know what works. Here is my honest take on MTB pedals after way too much trial and (mostly) error.

Cycling

Flats vs Clipless: The Eternal Debate

Everyone has opinions on this. Let me give you mine.

Flat Pedals

I rode flats for my first three years of mountain biking. They are just platforms with pins – your shoe sits on top, no mechanical connection. Simple.

Here is the thing: flats are actually really good. Like, way better than roadies give them credit for. You can dab a foot instantly when things get sketchy. You can bail cleanly when your front tire washes out in a corner (ask me how I know). No fumbling with a cleat when you need to put a foot down NOW.

The downside? On techy climbs where you need to pull up on the pedals, flats do not help. And in chunky terrain, your feet can bounce off the pedals if your technique is sloppy. I have slipped a pedal and had pins shred my shin. Those scars are permanent.

Clipless Pedals

Despite the confusing name (you actually clip IN to them), clipless means a cleat on your shoe mechanically locks into the pedal. Click in, click out. Same concept as ski bindings kind of.

I switched to clipless about four years ago and I am not going back. The connection feels more secure. I can pull up through rough sections. My feet never accidentally leave the pedals on big hits. Power transfer is marginally better I guess, but honestly that is not why I run them.

Downside: there is a learning curve. You WILL forget to unclip at some point and fall over at a standstill. Everyone does. It is embarrassing but you only do it once. Okay, maybe twice.

My Favorite Flat Pedals

RaceFace Chester

This is what I put on every bike I lend to friends. Cheap (like $50), durable enough, plenty of grip. The nylon composite body can take a beating without destroying itself. I have run Chesters for thousands of miles and they just… work.

Only complaint: the bearings on one pair started getting loose after about 18 months of hard use. But at that price point, not really upset about it.

OneUp Composite

Slightly nicer than Chesters, still plastic. The concave shape really cups your foot well. Twelve pins per side – those things GRIP. I ran these on my enduro bike for a season and loved them. A bit more expensive ($75ish) but worth the upgrade if you are sticking with flats long-term.

Deity TMAC

These are expensive for flat pedals (over $100) but they are stupid thin and huge. If you have big feet or want the most stable platform possible, these are great. Aluminum body feels premium. I am too clumsy to run expensive flats though – I will just smash them on rocks.

My Favorite Clipless Pedals

Shimano M520

The beginner special. I have been riding these for years and honestly still use them on my trail bike. They are like $35, they work perfectly, they are nearly indestructible. The tension is adjustable so you can make unclipping easier while you learn.

Everyone says upgrade to fancier pedals. I have tried fancier pedals. They are marginally lighter and marginally nicer but they are also way more expensive. Unless you are racing and counting grams, the M520s are fine.

Crankbrothers Eggbeater/Candy

I tried Crankbrothers for a season. They look cool (that four-sided entry is slick) and they shed mud really well. But I wore through two sets of cleats in one year. That gets expensive. Plus I never loved the float feel – too much wiggle for my taste.

Some people swear by them. I went back to Shimano.

Time ATAC

These are actually my favorites for their mud-shedding ability. The open design means gunk falls right through. I ran Time pedals one winter and never had the engagement issues I had had with my Shimanos in the same conditions.

The cleats last longer than Crankbrothers. The engagement feel is positive. Only reason I switched back to Shimano was because I already had a drawer full of Shimano cleats. Otherwise I would probably still be on Time.

What About Those Combo Pedals?

You know, clipless on one side, flat on the other? Shimano M324s are the classic example.

I had a pair. I hated them. They always landed clip-side down when I wanted the flat side. The platform is tiny and uncomfortable. They are heavy. They are awkward.

Just pick one system and commit. If you want the option of regular shoes sometimes, just keep flat pedals on your casual bike. Swapping pedals takes like five minutes.

Stuff I Actually Care About When Buying Pedals

Spindle material: Chromoly is fine. Titanium saves a tiny bit of weight if you are made of money. Aluminum spindles bend easier – learned that the hard way.

Bearing type: Sealed cartridge bearings last longer and stay smooth. Loose ball bearings are serviceable but need more attention. I just want to ride, not maintain bearings, so I go sealed.

Platform size: Bigger platform equals more stable. I have size 12 feet and small pedals feel awkward. Get a platform that matches your foot size.

Adjustable tension (for clipless): Being able to dial in how hard it is to unclip is clutch. Start loose, tighten as you get comfortable. My pedals are way tighter now than when I started.

Do Not Forget the Shoes

Pedals are only half the equation. For flats, get proper MTB shoes with sticky rubber – Vans might look cool but they slip off pins. For clipless, make sure you buy the right cleat for your pedals and break them in before a big ride.

I have shown up to the trailhead realizing I forgot to swap cleats between bikes. Had to ride 15 miles in running shoes on clipless pedals. Do not be me.

My Current Setup

Trail bike: Shimano M520 clipless. Works perfect, no reason to change.

Hardtail/loaner bike: RaceFace Chesters. Cheap, durable, friends can ride without special shoes.

Honestly either system works great once you are used to it. The best pedal is the one you feel confident on. If you are newer and sketched about unclipping, go flats. No shame. If you want that locked-in feel, clipless is amazing once you are past the learning curve.

Recommended Cycling Gear

Garmin Edge 1040 GPS Bike Computer – $549.00
Premium GPS with advanced navigation.

Park Tool Bicycle Repair Stand – $259.95
Professional-grade home mechanic stand.

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Chris Reynolds

Chris Reynolds

Author & Expert

Chris Reynolds is a USA Cycling certified coach and former Cat 2 road racer with over 15 years in the cycling industry. He has worked as a bike mechanic, product tester, and cycling journalist covering everything from entry-level commuters to WorldTour race equipment. Chris holds certifications in bike fitting and sports nutrition.

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